This week’s Wine and Movie Pairing goes to more darkly comedic territory with a movie (and a wine) that turns expectations upside down. Let’s take a look at American Fiction with the “Light Skinned” chilled red from Bodkin Wines.
American Fiction represents the feature film directorial debut for writer/director Cord Jefferson, and it certainly makes a splash for someone new to Hollywood. Adapted from the 2001 novel Erasure by Everett, American Fiction follows struggling novelist Thelonius “Monk” Ellison as he writes a “stereotypical Black book” as a cheeky joke to his publisher, only to see it become an overnight success.
The film asks audiences to examine biases and judge books by their covers (or not), all wrapped up in a surprisingly touching story about familial expectations and the way they are defined (or not) by gender and race.
Considering that American Fiction has what I would call the best awards bait trailer of the year, I was already excited to see the movie. I was prepared to cringe and laugh alongside Jeffrey Wright (who truly flexes every muscle in his acting toolbox as Monk).
What caught me by surprise was the secondary storyline that focuses on the Ellison family. It’s a multi-faceted screenplay that’s easy to love, expertly handled with sensitivity and a sharp wit by Cord Jefferson’s attention to detail and love for the subject. American Fiction is a movie that everyone will enjoy, but those who have had to code-switch between family and the public at large will especially appreciate this satirical look at post-pandemic American life.
So what wine pairs with a movie that isn’t afraid to throw spaghetti at a wall in the name of defying expectations? There’s one winemaker who immediately comes to mind, a Stanford-educated Shakespeare nerd from Iowa who happens to be a self-taught winemaker - Chris Christensen from Bodkin Wines.
Bodkin Wines was founded in Sonoma County in 2011, and since its founding, winemaker Chris Christensen has sought to provide exciting, boundary-pushing wines and techniques. From Bodkin’s signature innovation - America’s first sparkling Sauvignon Blanc was made by Bodkin - to Muscat Canelli-based dessert wines, Bodkin has made a name for itself with its acid-driven and simply delicious wines across the style spectrum.
It comes as no surprise, then, to see “Light Skinned”, a chilled red (or dark rosé, depending on your perspective) made entirely of Zinfandel from Mendocino County, as a newer offering from Bodkin Wines. The 2022 “Light Skinned” red wine is the second vintage of this particular cuvée, and it is equally thought provoking and easy to drink.
California Zinfandel has a reputation of being super ripe and only acceptable with steak, but this version (which only sat on the grape skins for 36 hours) maintains ample ripe fruit while also providing a strong backbone of acidity and a lower alcohol point than your average Zinfandel. All in all? This is a glou glou wine that will surprise you with its depth and complexity, but leave you chuckling with glee and begging to share it with someone.
Light Skinned is thoroughly enjoyable on its own, but if you wanted to pair it with food, I’d honor the Massachusetts roots of Monk Ellison and serve it with some Boston favorites. Baked beans, North End-style pizza, and even lobster rolls would be delicious pairings. Of course, with Light Skinned being a true middle-of-the-spectrum wine, this would work with a whole host of food, so tell me what you end up drinking it with!
The 2022 Bodkin “Light Skinned” Chilled Red is available direct to consumers for $32. Look for it at your favorite restaurant or local wine store.
American Fiction is now in movie theaters. Stay tuned for availability on streaming services, video on demand platforms, Blu-Ray, and DVD.
Further Reading
Backstage offers an inside look at American Fiction with writer/director Cord Jefferson.
Get to know Chris Christensen and his label, Bodkin Wines, through his Wine Enthusiast 40 under 40 Tastemaker profile from 2020.
Great pairing!