The Wine Press: Dec. 18, 2023

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Here are some highlights from the week in wine news:

• American wine pioneer Miljenko “Mike” Grgich has passed away at the age of 100. Mike Grgich is perhaps best known for his contribution to the 1976 Judgment of Paris as the winemaker behind Chateau Montelena’s winning Chardonnay (just the second vintage of Chardonnay the estate ever made). Mr. Grgich made a second home for himself in the Napa Valley after his native Croatia was overtaken by Communist rule. With a resume including winemaking jobs at Souverain Winery, Beaulieu Vineyards, and Robert Mondavi, Grgich provided expertise and a newfound tradition to an emerging Napa Valley before settling into his own eponymous label. In the 1990’s Mr. Grgich returned to Croatia and established Grgić Vina winery in an effort to support the post-war rebuilding efforts. Grgich also worked with Dr. Carol Meredith from UC Davis to trace the roots of California Zinfandel to its Croatian origins in the grape Kaštelanski Crljenak. 

  • Read the obituary from Grgich Hills Estate here.

  • Further Reading: A Glass Full of Miracles by Miljenko “Mike” Grgich (2016)

Photo Credit: Grgich Hills Estate

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• Willamette Valley AVA celebrates its 40th anniversary this year. In 1983, Willamette Valley became the 55th designated American Viticultural Area. Oregon’s premiere wine region has now blossomed in size, hosting 11 sub-AVAs within the boundaries of the original territory, with four sub-AVAs added within the last five years. Today, Willamette Valley is considered a landmark region for American Pinot Noir, with its variety of soil types and terroirs providing beautiful wines with incredible diversity. From cult favorite producers to household names, Willamette Valley is home to over 700 wineries and so much more than its signature grape. Willamette Valley Wineries Association is planning a year’s worth of special events to commemorate the special anniversary, including a wine tasting weekend that recreates tasting room environments from 1984.

  • Read the press release from Willamette Valley Wineries Association here. 

  • Read more from Oregon Live here.

A bottle of Willamette Valley wine made the same year the Willamette Valley AVA was founded. Photo Credit: Michael Alberty.

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• One of Champagne’s most unique têtes de cuvées is likely to become extinct. Bollinger’s Vieilles Vignes Françaises, a Blanc de Noirs champagne only produced in spectacular vintages, gets its name from the ungrafted vines that surround the headquarters of the esteemed production house in Aÿ. Most of the vines in Champagne were grafted onto American rootstock when phylloxera first invaded in the 1880’s. In an effort to concentrate flavor in grapes and establish a signature house style, it is customary for modern vintners to regraft vines onto new rootstock every 20 years or so. Because the yields on ungrafted vines is significantly lower, Vieilles Vignes Françaises is by definition a rarity for the Champagne region, and this outstanding cuvee has become known as a standard bearer for sparkling wines made from 100% Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, phylloxera has started to infect the historic ungrafted vines, and Bollinger is worried that some of the oldest vines in Champagne have produced the last vintage of Vieilles Vignes Françaises.

  • Read more from The Drinks Business here.

  • Read a detailed history of Vieilles Vignes Françaises by Tom Stevenson here.

Ungrafted vines in Aÿ are completely tended by hand to make Bollinger’s rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises Blanc de Noirs Champagne. Photo Credit: Decanter.

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• The Languedoc region welcomes a new red wine appellation. Grés de Montpellier is the first new appellation in Languedoc since 2017, effective November 30. Grés de Montpellier is a red wine-only appellation, with Southern French favorites Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre as focal grape varieties. Wines will be required to age for a minimum of one year before release. Starting in 2024, the region can state “Grés de Montpellier” on wine labels without the conjunctive Languedoc labeling. 

  • Read more from Decanter here.

Photo Credit: Syndicat Grés de Montpellier

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• The eighth edition of the Langtons Classification for fine Australian wines has been published. The Langtons Classification was first released in 1990 with a three-tiered structure, and focuses on ranking the most in-demand Australian wines at auction. Inspired by the 1855 Classified Growths of Bordeaux, Langton’s Classification now condenses its picks into two categories: First Classified and Classified. 19 new wines have joined the list this year, of which 65% originate from cool climate growing regions, marking a difference in both Australian winemaking and consumer demand. Historic producer Penfolds continues to dominate the 100-bottle list with eight different cuvées, four of which have earned First Classified Status.

  • Read more from Langtons here.

  • Read more from The World of Fine Wine here.

Photo Credit: Langtons

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• The Court of Master Sommeliers-Americas has removed the terms “Old World” and “New World” in its blind tasting language standards. Previous generations of sommeliers have been taught that “Old World” wines generally come from Europe and exhibit less alcohol, tighter acidity levels, and more secondary characteristics than their “New World” counterparts from around the world. Now that winemaking techniques and climate change have caused viticultural lines to blur, the Court of Master Sommeliers-Americas will be assessing regional typicity for wines based on more current standards. The new blind tasting grid that eliminates “Old World” and “New World” will take effect in Court exams starting in 2024.

  • Read the statement from the CMS-A newsletter here.

  • Read more from Forbes here.

Illustration Credit: Alyssa Nassner