Edition 01.03
Riesling and Rock n Roll
A Letter from Maria
Hello everyone,
For the first time in recent memory, I was walking around San Francisco last week and thinking to myself, “Huh. It’s colder than I thought it would be. Time to acquire a new winter coat.” That was a comforting and yet alarming internal conversation. For starters, I have lived in the Bay Area for most of my life and have never felt the need to wear something heavier than a good jacket. But then I was reminded of something pretty cool… I am a sommelier working in San Francisco. Good layers are not only welcomed, but necessary. And it was in that moment that I remembered how grateful I am to be working in a job where no two days are the exact same.
In case you missed it, SAG-AFTRA has reached a deal with the AMPTP, which concludes a 118 day strike. This is a very big deal for unions in and out of Hollywood, and as an actor myself, I am excited to see how the profession changes and grows because of the new workplace protections the union fought hard to put in place. The best part? We can now start talking about the upcoming awards season! The first awards contender of the year is featured in this week’s Wine and Movie Pairing. Stay tuned for more awards content as the weeks go on.
In addition to the big news, take a look at how the world is changing for wine production in the Wine News Roundup. It’s awards season for the food and wine world as well, so stick around for a quick feature on another award winning sommelier in The Last Sip. And if you spot anything cherry mocha, you know where to find me.
As always, thank you for being here today!
Wine News Roundup
Wine production worldwide is projected to hit the lowest yields since 1961. In a new statement from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (AKA the OIV), inclement weather in both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres have negatively impacted global wine production by 7%. The good news? Since the demand for wine has also dipped, winemakers are optimistic that the 2023 supply will meet consumer demand. Read more from BBC News here.
Three Napa Valley wineries have filed a civil rights complaint to the California Attorney General’s Office. Hoopes Vineyard was sued by Napa County last year to prevent visitors from accessing public tastings or winery tours. Smith-Madrone and Summit have now joined Hoopes Vineyard in a counter complaint against Napa County, opening up a legal Pandora’s box that examines the rights and responsibilities of local small and large businesses. The case will be going to trial on January 29, 2024. Read more from Wine-Searcher News here.
France has approved a new AOC specializing in rosé. The new AOC Sable de Camargue (translation: “sands of Camargue”) will devote most of its plantings to Grenache Gris, which has historically been the focal grape for white and rosé wines. Read more from Miquel Hudin here, and subscribe to his Substack while you’re at it!
D.O Penedès is going organic! Starting in 2025, organic viticulture will be a requirement for membership in D.O Penedès, making it the first 100% organic D.O in the world. The most exciting part? D.O Penedès has promised to help small producers cover the costs of converting to organic practices in both the vineyard and the cellar. Read more from The Drinks Business here.
The Michelin Guide has awarded its newest list of starred restaurants for New York City, Washington D.C., and Chicago. In a first-of-its-kind ceremony that pitted city against city against city, Chicago walked away with the only new three star restaurant (Smythe). Yannick Benjamin (Contento, NYC), Sarah Thompson (Queen’s English, D.C.), and Alex Ring (Sepia, Chicago) were announced as the Sommelier Award winners in their respective cities. See the full list of New York stars here, D.C. stars here, and Chicago stars here.
To cap off the end of Sherry Week, Jancis Robinson has written about the unfortified wines of Jerez. There’s a larger appetite for what is officially called Vino de Pasto (“food wines”) that is making a case for wider distribution and a new legal category in the home of sherry. Read the article, as published on JancisRobinson.com, here.
Weekly R.E.P.O.R.T.
Reading
The inimitable Barbra Streisand has finally written her memoir, and boy is it hefty. All 970 pages of My Name Is Barbra are filled with stories of food, loves past and present, an insider’s look at Broadway and Hollywood, and so much more. I picked up the audiobook version, which contains additional anecdotes and music that work seamlessly with the format. This audiobook is 48 hours long(!), so I’ll be taking my time with it, but every time I hear the familiar lilt of Streisand’s voice, my inner musical theatre kid is healed.
Eating
Cornbread Chips from Trader Joe’s. Why have these just popped onto my radar now? I bought one bag early in the week thinking I would eat them with a hearty chili to beat the winter blues. Our two-person household has consumed no less than three bags this week, and we are on the hunt for more. Please send help.
Playing
Nominees for the 66th Grammy Awards have been announced, and it’s a great year for women in music! I’ve been listening to Spotify’s Grammys playlist to get familiar with this year’s crop of nominees before the ceremony on February 4. Keep a close eye on the Best New Artist category, as there are a lot of exciting names on that list.
Obsessing
Cherry mocha-colored everything has been the name of the game this autumn, and the Telfar Medium Shopping Bag in Oxblood is at the top of my holiday wish list right now. I am in the market for a good work tote that ideally zips closed and can fit at least one bottle of wine (you know, for work), so if anyone happens to find something similar in this gorgeous color, please blow up my DMs so I can pin them all to my gift list.
Recommending
One of my unexpected favorites of the week was this 2021 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie “Cuvée Alouettes” from Bourgueil. Youthful and vibrant, with a supportive earthy layer and some roasted tomatillo aromatics playing alongside some tart red berries, this is a fantastic bottle to enjoy on its own or pair with lighter bites. I’m a sucker for anything Kermit Lynch imports, and for $20 retail, this wine proves that great wine can be found at great value.
Treating
Last week, my husband celebrated his birthday, so I treated him to a wonderful evening downstairs at Chez Panisse. This was a first visit for both of us, and it will not be the last. From the Prosecco with lemon and sage apéritif to the last bite of the Meyer lemon tartlet, the food was satisfying and delicious. Service was consistent and intentional at every point of the evening. We can’t wait to come back and try the upstairs café!
Wine and Movie Pairing
Wow, it feels good to jump back into awards season movies! We’re diving head first into wine and movie pairings for this season’s top awards contenders with Priscilla x 2018 Balthasar Ress Hallgartener Hendelberg Spätlese Riesling.
In Priscilla, Academy Award-winning writer/director Sofia Coppola brings her iconic, pastel-laden visual style to an adaptation of Priscilla Presley’s 1985 memoir, Elvis and Me. The audience is taken on a journey from the title character’s first encounter with Elvis Presley to the tumultuous end of their marriage. Ice blue silk, fluffy lashes, and eyeliner play uncredited but key roles in transforming 14-year-old Priscilla Beaulieu into Priscilla Presley, “wife of the King”.
The elements that have stuck with me since seeing the movie are mostly visual, but I do want to take a second to acknowledge the great casting work here, especially in the two lead roles. Kirsten Dunst (Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette) was the person to recommend Cailee Spaeny to the director. Jacob Elordi, of Euphoria fame, is magnetic on screen, and uses his height and charm to win over Priscilla (and audiences). Both actors look young on screen, which reinforces the idea that no matter how much time and circumstances change, Elvis and Priscilla remain young at heart.
For this unique wine and movie pairing, I wanted to hint at the beginnings of Priscilla and Elvis’ relationship in West Germany. In a touching Instagram post commemorating their wedding anniversary, Priscilla Presley once wrote, “Memories, sweetened through the ages just like wine”. What wine with a touch of sweetness often stands the test of time? German Riesling!
This Spätlese Riesling from Balthasar Ress comes from Hallgarten, which includes some of the highest elevation vineyards in the Rheingau region of Germany. Spätlese-level Riesling has a touch of residual sugar that lends itself well to ageability (this wine is five years old and feels like it could age even longer), but is also thoroughly enjoyable now. But the most meaningful connection here? The grapes for this wine were harvested less than an hour from Wiesbaden, the German military outpost where Priscilla and Elvis met.
On the nose, the signature Riesling giveaway of petrol, and steely slate give way to tart green apple, lime pith, and lemon zest. The off-dry quality counteracts the racy acidity and keeps everything in balance. At 11.5% ABV, this is a wonderful pairing with sushi or lighter fare (try it with a spicy scallop hand roll, or virtually anything with spicy mayo). If you pair it with Elvis’ favorite peanut butter, banana, and bacon sandwiches, do let me know how that works out.
The 2018 vintage of the Balthasar Ress Hallgartener Hendelberg Spätlese Riesling is available wherever fine wine is sold for $29 before tax and shipping. Look for it at your local wine store.
Priscilla is currently available in movie theaters nationwide. The movie will be available for streaming on a platform to be named later in early 2024.
The Last Sip
Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy has been awarded the 2023 Social Visionary of the Year in Wine Enthusiast’s annual Wine Star Awards. As a co-founder of The Roots Fund, McCoy has been instrumental in creating scholarships, internships, and hands-on job opportunities in the wine industry for BIPOC students. Outside of the nonprofit world, McCoy is the CEO and co-founder of Lawrence Wine Estates and Demeine Estates, specializing in the importing and marketing of Napa Valley’s most premium labels. Read Chasity Cooper’s profile from Wine Enthusiast here, and check out the other Wine Star Award winners here.
That’s all for now. Until next week, cheers!
Maria Banson